How to Cook: White Sauces
Alright, now we’re cooking with gas. For the first time since my lesson on cutting up a chicken, my Grand Diplôme program has served up something of use: how to make a white sauce. This may be what stands between me and never having to make a casserole with cream of mushroom soup again (not that there’s anything wrong with that). With my yellow apron hanging officially from my neck, stirring at the stove yesterday, I felt for the first time in a long time that I was actually learning something new in the kitchen. I’ve tried to wing a roux before, but following instructions for this sauce made something thrilling happen with the most basic kitchen ingredients and in a matter of moments. It was almost as transfixing as those grade school rockets made from vinegar and baking soda.
I grew up in a house without sauces (unless chile con queso and ranch dressing count). In fact, I don’t think it was until I worked at a restaurant that I really began to understand all a sauce can do. As my course book says, “An inventive sauce can transform a simple dish into something superlative.” (I wish I knew more short-cuts like this in life — how, for instance, to take a simple outfit to something superlative. Know what I mean?) But really, when it comes to sauces, it seems that the sauce need not even really be “inventive”: plain pasta can be transformed into mac and cheese with a mornay or cheese sauce. Instant supper update.
White Sauce
makes 1 cup
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk
Melt butter in a small pan over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in flour. Return to the burner over moderate heat, and blend in half the milk, then add the rest. Continue stirring until boiling and then let simmer for 1-2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Variations:
- Béchamel Sauce: Season milk in a small covered saucepan with 1 slice onion, 1 small bay leaf, 6 peppercorns and a pinch of ground mace. Keep hot (but not boiling) for 5-7 minutes. Strain, and proceed with master recipe above.
- Mushroom Sauce: Flavor one cup milk as in bechamel. Finely chop 1/2 cup (2 ounces) mushrooms. Cook mushrooms in 1 tablespoon butter for 2-3 minutes until tender and fairly dry. Take from heat, add 1 additional tablespoon butter and, when melted, stir in 1 1/2 tablespoons flour. Blend in the seasoned milk. Stir over medium heat until boiling and cook for 2 minutes.
- Soubise (Onion) Sauce: Slice 2 large onions. Blanch onion by putting in cold water, bringing to a boil, and draining. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a pan, add onion and cook, covered, until tender but not colored. Purée onions in a blender, then add puréed onion to hot white or béchamel sauce.
- Mornay (Cheese) Sauce: Make a white or béchamel sauce, remove from heat and gradually stir in 1/4 cup grated cheese, such as a combination of gruyère and parmesan or sharp cheddar. You may need to add a little milk is sauce seems too thick. When well mixed, stir in 1/2 teaspoon dijon mustard.
Velouté Sauce
makes about 2 cups
1 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
1-1 1/2 cups stock
1/4 cup light cream
salt and pepper
squeeze of lemon juice
Melt butter in a saucepan, stir in flour and cook for about 5 seconds until roux is the color of pale straw (this is called a blond roux). Remove from heat and cool slightly before stirring in the stock. Blend, return to heat and stir until thick. Add light cream, season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Cook 4-5 minutes, or until sauce is glossy and the consistency of heavy cream. Add lemon juice and remove from heat.
Variations:
- Caper Sauce: Stir 1 1/2 tablespoons drained capers and 2 teaspoons chopped parsley into velouté sauce.
- Mustard Sauce: Mix 1 teaspoon dijon mustard with 1 tablespoon of the prepared velouté sauce; stir into remaining sauce.
Lisa (dinner party): Casseroles are soo much better when you make your own sauces. Like, crazy good.32 weeks ago
Oh, don’t I believe it! I’ve never really made homemade mac and cheese before (being such a fan of Annie’s Aged Wisconsin Cheddar), but last night I poured some mornay over elbow maraconi and some halved grape tomatoes, popped it in the oven for about twenty minutes, and what came out was somewhat divine.32 weeks ago
Meghan: yum — i’m so hungry now, and tempted to mix up homemade mac and cheese for lunch! how exciting to learn something new and very useful.
i discovered (thanks to my silver spoon cookbook) nutmeg makes a marvelous addition to a white sauce. somehow it’s the secret ingredient that takes white sauce to superlative.32 weeks ago
Meghan, Yes! Nutmeg! I’m shocked the Grand Diplome program didn’t include that in the recipe!32 weeks ago
Suzy: Okay, I haven’t even read the post yet, but I must say: that tea towel is fantastic! Is it vintage Vera?32 weeks ago
Suzy, There’s a rummage sale in New Jersey I always make a point of going to and that’s where I scoop up a lot of my vintage housewares finds. I think those napkins are faux-Vera, but they don’t have a tag for me to tell you who made them for sure. Another vintage mystery…32 weeks ago
Tara: I’m lactose intolerant… do you think there is any point in trying to make this with soy milk?32 weeks ago
Julia: After years of trying and ending up with horrible, lumpy grey sauces that tasted of flour, I finally mastered the white sauce by roux-method about a year or two ago (thanks for your patience Mum!). It’s amazing the difference it makes. Cheese sauce is my favourite, and is delicious with cauliflower, macaroni or in a lasagne.
32 weeks ago
Oh, and fabulous accessories will take a simple outfit to something superlative, 9 times out of 10 (some days nothing will help!)
Tara, I am an absolute ignoramus when it comes to soy milk, but a quick google search yielded results from vegans who say yes, you can absolutely make white sauce from soy milk, just make sure it’s the unsweetened variety. There were also suggestions for rice milk (though it has a thinner consistency) and oat milk.You could also try substituting broth. It won’t be a white sauce, per se, but it could add a nice dimension of flavor, depending on what you’re serving it with. Happy saucing!
Julia, I am an absolute dunce when it comes to accessorizing. I’ve been known to have my way with a scarf, vintage brooches, and one favorite necklace, but after that I’m positively stumped. I look at those girls on those street style blogs and wonder how DO they do it?!?32 weeks ago
LQ: I just learned to make white sauce last weekend when I made Martha Stewart’s Mac and Cheese. I amazed myself and my husband with how well it turned out.
BTW Love Love Love your site.32 weeks ago
Andrea: I’m so glad I found your site! Your writing style and topics are completely in sync with my interests. I immediately added you to my Google Reader subscriptions when I stumbled upon your “How To Learn Something New Every Day” post the other day.
Also, this is a recipe I use constantly, having learned it from my mom when I was little. Most frequently I’ll turn it into a gravy with bacon and serve it over toast or biscuits for breakfast.32 weeks ago
beth: all those options from a cup of milk? amazing! yay for real ingredients. that grand diplôme sounds like such a great resource.32 weeks ago
LQ, It IS kind of amazing isn’t it? I love that feeling when something sort of simple turns out, well, to use the word of the day, superlative!
Andrea, Oh yum. With bacon and biscuits? Sounds like a heavenly Saturday morning.
Beth, It is a pretty cool resource, just cause it’s so official: “Here we are in Week 6, learning how to fry,” (that’s coming up next, btw), but it’s nothing you couldn’t get from a super comprehensive cookbook (maybe Martha’s Cooking School cookbook is like that? Not sure…). I just like the “assignment” feel of it, as well as its weird vintage charm.32 weeks ago
Sara Rose: Wow. This brings back memories. One of the first things my ma taught me how to make was a roux and she drilled it into my head “roux’s can be turned into anything, ANYTHING AT ALL!!! JUST BE CREATIVE!”
For being a pot headed hippie who made wine from her own fruits and veggies, maybe she was onto something. I use roux’s a LOT. The first real ‘comfort food’ dish I ever made was homemade mac n cheese. I find it hard to go back to the processed stuff but in the same breath, there is a place in this world for neon orange “cheese” noodles.
In fact, now that I think of it, homemade mac and cheese is the perfect thing for me to make post-tonsilectomy Eva tomorrow as a special yummy dinner! Thanks!32 weeks ago
Sara Rose, I’m so glad Eva made it through surgery and was back to her old cranky self!
32 weeks ago
Karen: I really like cauliflower with white sauce. It is an oldie but goodie!32 weeks ago
Beverly: In Texas, that roux is just yummy country gravy! As any Texas girl knows, with salt and pepper — and sometimes a little sausage — the gravy poured over fresh baked biscuits makes the best breakfast ever!32 weeks ago
baby cribs: My mouth is now watering! I really like white sauces. I prefer making those than those res ones.32 weeks ago
Jackie: Your site is a definite regular read of mine now. Love it.
I loved all of your wedding stuff, only wished you’d shared more!
My fiancee and I are currently putting together a backyard wedding of our own.
Also, any chance you’d share the NJ rummage sale location? I’m on the lookout!
Thank you!!31 weeks ago