POP Correspondent: Operation Viennese Coffeehouse


The new way I jet set is by checking out a different volume of “Foods of the World” from the local public library and studying the photos. It’s a perfect arrangement really, because the books are so old that the images—though all new to me—come equipped with a built-in nostalgia. Vienna is by far my favorite volume. And what’s not to like? This is a place where jaunty cabbies in bowler hats enjoy picnic lunches of brats and lager; where little boys in boiled wool jackets stroll at the “nibbler’s market,” and where coffee is served with schlag—such a cool term for “whipped cream”—and drinking it turns you into a MGM movie star because the coffeehouses themselves glow with a supremely flattering golden light. Or so it all seemed in the 1960s, when my book was printed.


I’ve taken to fetishizing those coffeehouses, with their rosebud-dotted porcelain espresso machines and racks of loaner newspapers because the recession has officially whipped, creamed, and conquered our beloved coffee pot. Giving up cable was nothing, eating beans and rice has been a thrilling adventure in cowboy cuisine, but to go from curated blends of java beans that specify not just what day but what time they were roasted to a rubbery can of Folgers has been tough. Blindfolded or not, I miss the richness. But saving money is fun! So this morning I curled a little orange rind around a skewer and added it to my cup, allowing the citrusy oils to make up for the otherwise anemic brew. I loved it, and wouldn’t mind combining it with a dusting of cocoa or cinnamon either—as a more virtuous alternative to schlag, of course. But when I get to Vienna, man, some day, some way, I’m going whole hog with what’s known as a Mozart: a mocha with cherry brandy and schlag.
Can you think of some other ways to tart up cheap coffee? –Katy














Katy, I’m so glad you posted this! As you know, I’ve been meaning to write the story for oh, about two years, when I found a complete set of Time Life Foods of the World in a church basement. I stayed up way too late the other night reading the American Cooking volume. I love this post! As for other ways to tart up cheap coffee, sprinkling cinnamon in the grounds is always a nice trick. Or what about serving with sweetened condensed milk?
PS I love that the little boy appears to be carrying a basket of strawberries. Strawberries for Frederich!41 weeks ago
Christine S.: I put cinnamon in the grounds sometimes, too. Sometimes, especially this time of the year, I’ll swirl a candy cane in my coffee and add a copious amount of half-n-half or add egg nog directly to the cup of fresh brewed. A tablespoon of pumpkin puree with cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves and the aforementioned half-n-half also makes a lovely homemade version of pumpkin spice latte. And, for real decadence, sometimes I’ll add a dash of Frangelico and melt a square of dark chocolate and put a bunch of cream in it…..oh, so much to do to make the run of the mill grocery store varieties of coffee taste that much better! Enjoy!41 weeks ago
Alice: Make extra-strong coffee and add in ginger, cardamom, cloves and a dash of cinnamon to the grounds. We had that in Egypt and it was amazing. I’ve also heard that adding a splash of tequila to your grounds before brewing, along with nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice will give you a heady blend.41 weeks ago
Jennifer: I’m more of a tea drinker, but my coffee-loving mama’s fave way to dress up java quickly is with a long swirl of chocolate syrup or heaping spoonful of cocoa and a topper of “schlag.” Cheers!41 weeks ago
Melanie: Sometimes I warm up a little of my kids’ chocolate milk in a mug and pour my coffee over that. I call it my “Poor Girl’s Cafe Mocha”. I am intrigued by the suggestion to put cinnamon and other spices in the grounds. Can’t wait to try that!41 weeks ago
Emmalinda: I agree. Add nutmeg, cinnamon, any aromatic spice really, to the ground coffee. I on the other hand, am such a coffee snob that we decided to just drink less good coffee rather than approach the Folgers can.
41 weeks ago
Jesse Lu: Oh, I feel your pain girl! What’s worse is that Montanans drink really weak coffee. It’s just awful. Brown water if you ask me. So none of the coffee shops there can even rescue you for a brief moment with a nice, strongly brewed cup of joe.
Cinnamon is my trick. Also a dash of salt in the grounds will cut the bitterness of a dark roast. Not too much though. You don’t want a mouth full of joe that tastes like Poseidon made it.
Wendy: We purchase the BIG can of store brand, and a pound of french vanilla beans (ground, of course) and stir together. From managing a coffeehouse in CA, to being a students wife in TX, we had to do something! This was it. When making the coffee,only when both of us were home, we would use an extra scoop of grounds and less water to get a richer flavor. It had our friends fooled! Adding a splash of extract to the pot is always a little helpful for a different kick of flavor. And for my tea loving child, we make a strong cup of Bengal Spice then add half a pkg. of hot cocoa mix for a chocolate chai. Isn’t it great that we actually have so much to choose from? Even on the tightest of budgets, there is room for a treat.40 weeks ago
michelle: Trader Joe!!! You can buy a pound of nicely roasted beans for $6 and get some really tasty brew! Or… a friend with a Costco membership can help out - their coffee is from (a national chain I tend to avoid but) is heads and shoulders above cheap coffee for taste. And my third suggestion: Bustelo! At most groceries and bodegas in the city in a yellow vac-pack brick or cans with a cute retro logo. It makes for bad espresso, but brewed as coffee, it’s quite dark and a nice kick for $3 a pound!40 weeks ago
Katy: what killer ideas, all of you! thanks!
Jesse, I didn’t want to say it, but you are right: the weakest damn coffee I’ve ever had.
And Christina and Alice–I’m totally coming over.40 weeks ago
rhonda35: My suggestion is much like Wendy’s. We buy cheap coffee (Folgers or the like) and then a pound of decent coffee - still not too expensive - I really like Eight O’Clock Coffee and that is only about $5/lb at the grocery store. Anyway, I measure out all but one T of the cheap stuff, then add a heaping T of the better coffee. Brew as usual - not bad! The nice thing about this is that you always have some good coffee on hand in case you have surprise visitors, etc.40 weeks ago
Evon T.: Surprisingly, I found that adding 1 or 2 chocolate mints can turn your coffee into a wonderful treat. Initially, it was such a surprise for me, as I don’t really care for chocolate mint anything, but dropping one in your coffee and giving it a stir is a wonderful way to give yourself a hot, liquidy hug or not-so-guilty dessert pleasure.40 weeks ago
Anna: I too have had to cut back on my coffee buying…but have found a whole new world of great, cheap coffee! Lately I’ve made a concerted effort to explore coffee under $5. I started w/ Chock Full O Nuts but found myself disappointed, moved to Folgers and decided I couldn’t do that to myself…then I found a few brands on the lowest part of the shelf that have turned out to be miracles under $5! The Yuban coffee brand has a Rainforest Alliance Approved coffee that has a lovely rich taste. There are a couple others I’ve enjoyed as well - I’ll look them up tonight and add them!40 weeks ago
KC: Katy—You’ve been to Vienna before in a past life… now it is time to fix this coffee. Everyone is focusing on the wrong piece of this experience. People. PEOPLE!!! It is all about the CUP not the freakn beans. Once the logo is on the cup’s side, your brain will instantly trigger that Mozart dense high quality left-handed bean picked fresh roasted organic aroma close your eyes and sip the goodness taste. So grab a Sharpie and a montana white picnic cup and write “Vienna Magic” on the side evoking old ghost memories from past Austrian adventures. Take it deep. KC39 weeks ago
Vanessa: Hello
Having been a barista in a really cool American Viennese-style coffee house, I am familiar with the extensive range of coffees they put together and ’schlag’. I recommend you go to that coffeehouse I used to work at if you are ever in Atlanta,– Cafe Intermezzo (the perimeter/dunwoody branch). We would make coffee with nutella, one with caramel, a white chocolate mocha, a butterscotch hot chocolate and the list goes on! Mmm.. memories37 weeks ago
Katy: Dear Vanessa,
I HAVE been there! I ordered some sort of Nutella and orange peel concoction and it was fall-off-the-chair delicious. That, and a visit to the Beehive co-op is, for me, an ideal day in Atlanta.35 weeks ago