Going Against the Grain
I’ve always been a bit of a contrarian. At my high school, where black bootcut stretch pants and bright colored button downs were de rigueur, I wore a tie-dye Amnesty International t-shirt and horn rim glasses. And then at my hippie college, I changed gears: only Katharine Hepburn high-waisted wool trousers for me, please! I don’t deliberately go against the grain, and it’s not an exercise in too-cool-for-school obnoxiousness. It’s just the way that feels right for me. Whenever I seem in step with everyone else, my inner compass-speedometer combo knows it’s time to change pace, direction, or both.
This is all to say that I’m feeling fully saturated with the popular food world right now and am finding myself wanting to veer off onto a dusty side road. While I love a farmer’s market as much as the next girl and want to eat fresh and local and organic (and think it’s just great if everybody else wants to also), I’m a little tired of the buzz words. Even a Stop and Shop billboard on Route 78 outside the Lincoln Tunnel proclaimed their food was “fresh” and “local.” And maybe it is, but to a certain extent, these words are becoming less meaningful.
I worry that the growing conversation about knowing where your food comes from has turned into a trend piece about the healthy glamour of organic heirloom tomatoes and milk from grass-fed cows. Does it seem that we’ve lost the initial thread in this conversation? To support local farms, to provide for ourselves and our families the most wholesome, nutritious foods, to treat the soil and the animals in the most respectful, humane way possible? Does it seem like this conversation about fresh food has turned into a hunt for the most esoteric ingredients or that we’ve forgotten why we’re interested in food systems that are sustainable in the first place?
My interest in food is an interest in connection, community, and in getting a kind of nourishment that means more than a full tummy. That is something that’s available to anyone who cooks, no matter where you get your produce. I hate to see good, fresh food turn into something rarefied and precious, something that people start to think is beyond their reach because they don’t have the money, time or access. Even a simple casserole, made with canned tomatoes and frozen vegetables, can provide the kind of sustenance we’re all hungry for.
And so, going against the grain, I’m hooked on two very unfashionable food books at the moment. Both have the looks of books from the ’80s that have been well used. Dog-eared, splattered, and taken on loan from my mom’s kitchen pantry, Whole Foods for the Whole Family and More-with-Less are my favorite cookbooks right now. Their focus is not organics or farm fresh produce, but on good nutrition through making the most of what you have, saving money, cooking with whole foods, using ingenuity. The food in these cookbooks is a means, not an end — a means to keep yourself fed and happy, to make use of kitchen staples, to learn how to make your own cereal, peanut butter and yogurt so you’re equipped with know-how in a hungry pinch. For lack of a better word, both books are so wholesome. And as the chill in the air rolls in, I find that endlessly appealing. I feel content to read recipe upon recipe involving ground beef; better still, I’d love to learn how to make my own sausage. I like the kind of cookbook that includes a list of ways to get your toddler involved in cooking. And maybe this is another indication of my changing interests, one that my horoscope predicted: I feel myself drifting farther and farther away from interest in popular sentiment and drawing closer to my own (imaginary) hearth: living well on a budget, simple pleasures, making a house a home, and finding meaning in the small stuff.
Amanda Mae: That’s funny… I was just looking at my copy of “More-With-Less” last night. I love the idea of it - more grains and veggies, less meat but I have a hard time loving the recipes - I think I’m just not used to them (and a lot of them call for meat). I like the book anyway it’s great, it’s down-home-style cookin! … (I like to give it the benefit of the doubt, being a Mennonite and all!)51 weeks ago
Maria Pontikis: This post is interesting.
I often wonder if I’m too precious when I go on and on about eating well. You’re right: these words “local” and “sustainable” and so on have been co-opted as a sort of new vernacular… not just by big producers, but sexy-food seekers. It’s easy to fall into this trap of eating for image, cooing about the tomato’s sweet flesh and seductive lure of an eggplant. It’s all a bit ridiculous when I think about it for more than a minute!
But I also think about what grounds me in my love of food. It’s knowing I can mix some sliced potatoes and squash and cheese into a simple gratin that leaves my belly full and a fridge full of tomorrow’s lunch. It’s last night, when my house-mate and I sat on his bed, catching up on the day, a bowlful of salted fennel slices between us, and I thought how lucky we were to be there, getting such enjoyment from conversation and a sweet little snack.
It’s a shame that these words, these foods, have lost meaning. What I hope isn’t lost is an honest desire to use ingredients, the best we can find, to feed ourselves - to find the happy balance between conscious eating and not over-thinking nourishment. And, I think best, to help us make homes where we dish up beautiful, simple things that lend happiness and health. Funny that hearth and health are such similar words …51 weeks ago
Adrienne: Oh, Sarah, dare I say we’re on the same wavelength? I’m sitting here at work reading your post and wishing I was at home making jam so I can give it to my loved ones for the holidays. Or making bread. Or cleaning the house. Or working in my tiny container garden. Anything to be nesting and “drawing closer to the hearth.”51 weeks ago
Lisa (dinner party): I have a copy of More With Less somewhere…thanks for inspiring me to dig it out!
And, yes, agreed on all of this. We made jelly last weekend and it was such a fun way to spend an afternoon. I’m definitely going to do more of this around the holidays instead of buying presents.51 weeks ago
Randi: It is sad to admit that using these tag lines so much have caused them to lose their meanings and are misused by many retailers. I do however appreciate the restaurants and families that grow their own foods and shop at local farmers markets. They are making some effort to reduce the environmental impact of the transport of their food. I do agree with you that wholesome food does not have to be local or organic. We all should determine what is most important to us when it comes to how our food is produced and not let advertisers control and determine that for us.
51 weeks ago
Blue Jean Gourmet: sausage-making, go for it! I love my Kitchen Aid grinder attachment–so much cheaper than buying pre-made and we have a lot of fun grinding our own hamburger meat & creating different sausage mixes.
food fads *are* silly, and so many of them seem to miss the point. having fun in the kitchen, feeding people we love…not competing to see who has more trendy, innovative techniques & ingredients.51 weeks ago
EB: Great post Sarah. I often turn to my grandmother’s depression era cookbooks when I feel this way. The assumption in those recipes is that the few ‘luxuries’ you have, like fresh protein, are OF COURSE fresh, local and organic. They then tell you how to stretch those precious goods with time, effort and cleverness.
Again…. great post.51 weeks ago
Margaret: I totally get the contrarian streak. I feel that warning signal that sometimes visits to say, “Is this really you? Who you want to be?” And then I end up taking stock of what ME really means again.
51 weeks ago
There is a Ruby Tuesday’s in the Chinatown near where I live. I passed it yesterday, and gave its “Simple… Fresh” writing on the awning a scornful stare. I have been to that place once, and it was so not ’simple’ or ‘fresh’ that I ended up walking out instead of eating there. (Although I have eaten at other RTs)
The word precious has several meanings, two of which I think are used here: precious as in made to be the darling of a fad, a coveted quality or thing which is made out to be more special than it is. OR: something that is amazing and pure and dear to someone. I like the latter definition for good, sustainable food, because I think it would do us all some good if we were more thankful for the food we have in the US, available and affordable. And do something fun with it!
Amanda, I feel you on the actual recipes. As I told my mom, some of them seem a little *too* close to the bone. How many ways can a can of tomato paste and hamburger be cooked really? But I so love the idea of it. And there’s a lentil casserole in there that sounds so good to me right now…
Oh Maria, You’re such a wordsmith! But I would say that you weren’t being precious about the fennel, per se, you were appreciating how the food heightened your enjoyment of that time with your roommate, right? I love food in and of itself — but what really sends me into rhapsody is when it brings people together or offers some solace — like a cookie and a cup of tea on a bad day. Love your observation about health and hearth!
Lisa, Jelly making! Fun! I’m thinking of making another batch of strawberry jam and canning it…or whatever you call putting jam into jars and sealing it…”processing”?
Randi, It *is* sad, I agree. But it doesn’t have to be! Maybe we all can keep going about our business, buying local when we can, buying organic when we can, etc, but try to demystify the whole thing. Maybe it’s just everyone *talking* about it that’s made these actions lose their meaning. I totally agree about just tuning out the marketers, though.
Blue Jean Gourmet, Yay to grinding your own meat! I haven’t done it yet, but I’m ready to “have fun in the kitchen and feed people I love.” Love the way you put that.
EB, Like the mayonnaise cake recipe! You say it so well — there is an understanding in those old cookbooks.
Margaret, Touche on the word “precious.” Good point! Good food should most definitely fall into the latter definition.51 weeks ago
Emmalinda: I currently have the Honey-Baked Lentil casserole on p. 106 baking in the oven. The Baked Lentils w/Cheese on the same page is such a winner, as well. Being a Mennonite, I grew up eating More with Less recipes, and MWL is also how I learned to cook. I’ve found that many recipes can be made vegetarian if need be/I have no meat–Meat & Potato Quiche is another winner. I’m so glad to see this somewhere in the blog world! Can you tell I’m a fan?
There is a “trilogy” of these cookbooks, printed by the same company. The other two are Extending the Table (all international recipes-many more meatless options) and Simply in Season. Simply in Season is about using ingredients that are in season, as the title says. Less about buzzwords, and more about eating with the seasons of the year. Maybe you’d be interested in those, as well.51 weeks ago
Meghan: I’ve been thinking about all this lately, too. Healthy food needs to be accessible to everyone, and not be a luxury good. I have to find a copy of these cookbooks, and Emmalinda, I’m really interested in finding Simply in Season! Thanks for commenting about it.51 weeks ago
pbg: …yes…51 weeks ago
Emmalinda!!!! I cannot believe you have that casserole in the oven right now! That’s amazing! And I didn’t know there were other books in this series. I will definitely check out the other two. Thanks so much for the tip!
Meghan, Re Simply in Season — I know! I want it too now.
pbg, …i heart you…51 weeks ago
Wendy Bussell: I really cannot belive this post! I recieved a copy of More with Less as a gift almost 20 years ago! It is fabulous! If you read all the sidebar stuff and the in-between the chapters stuff you will find great ideas as what to serve for UNexpected company,party ideas,Sunday night suppers, etc.
One of our favorites for Sunday night, when you’ve had a large meal for lunch, is the Bread Omelet. It taste like a grilled cheese sandwich. Honey chicken has been fondly renamed-Yellow chicken-due to its yellow curry color. I have never made anything out of this book that we hated, or even disliked. There are also so many variations for each recipe that you really can’t go wrong.
Try also the Quick Chocolate Pudding,I make a gallon of this for potlucks and the bowl is always empty, and the Applesauce-Nut cake(co-operative method)is the best by far!
Now to be truthful, I haven’t tried al ot of the fish dishes as we really don’t like the idea of many of them, prefering to make plain baked or grilled, then making a salad out of what is left. Enjoy!!51 weeks ago
Joyce: Love your post! I agree wholeheartly…try to eat organically and consciously, but if you can’t - the important thing is to eat as close as you can to nature - with each season. Second, the most important ingredient in food should be love. The love and caring energy that go into each dish - transfers to the person who eats it no matter what you make….canned tomatoes or heirloom locally picked….let’s get back to the way our ancestors ate.51 weeks ago
Emmalinda: You can buy Simply in Season at Amazon (they have Extending the Table, too):
http://www.amazon.com/Simply-Season-World-Community-Cookbook/dp/0836192974
You can also buy them from a place called Ten Thousand Villages, a store that sells fair trade handicrafts from around the world. They have stores across the country, and most will sell the cookbooks.
I’m so glad people are excited! While More With Less is my old standby, Simply in Season is my new favorite.51 weeks ago
tea_austen: This is a great post, and I definitely can relate. I laugh (wryly) whenever anyone talks about the organic movement being elite—I grew up in the organic movement and it was hardly elite (more like grubby health food stores with creaky floors and smelly bulk bins).
But this is America, a capitalist culture, and whenever an idea gains a little bit of traction, it’s co-opted as a marketing gimmick. That doesn’t mean the roots aren’t valid and worthy. I shop at farmers’ markets because I want to support local farmers (if the transportation systems ever go haywire, we’re going to need ‘em), and because the food is fresh and tastes miles better. I believe in organic practices (certified or not), because that’s one less farmer’s family being exposed to (as many) sprays, and I worry about chemicals going into the soil and the runoff. Yes, these things have been glamorized and made trendy, but the roots are still valid.
The food world is a funny place, I find. People get worked up over this delicacy or that, it can get precious, and elitist, and snobby so quickly. But food is perennial and elemental. We’re human, we’ll always want a fully belly, a satisfied palate, and those who are dear to us around the table. I know I’m generally happier with a fresh tomato out of the garden than an eight-course tasting menu (amazing though that may be). Humble pleasures are often the best.
(p.s. still chuckling at you going from tie-dye to Hepburn glam, impressive range!).50 weeks ago
Audra S.: Great post! I, too, have been thinking that words like “fresh” and “local” are just becoming empty buzzwords.
Interesting cookbooks — I’m going to have to dig up a copy and check them out!50 weeks ago