July 23, 2009

Retro Food, Remade: Tuna Macaroni Salad

tuna-macaroni-salad

I know it’s summer when…

  1. the line between “wet from the shower” and “sweaty” becomes blurred
  2. my mom has a bowl of cold tuna macaroni salad in the fridge
  3. the humidity encourages frequent naps
  4. all of the above

And the correct answer is d!

I’m not sure what it is — maybe just the memory of simple childhood flavors — but sometimes the classics, no matter how unfashionable, are what I crave. I find myself powerless, for example, in the presence of my mom’s tuna macaroni salad. It sits in a white bowl in her refrigerator, beckoning in the way only creamy cold pasta can, and is the perfect thing to sit down at the kitchen table with on a hot summer afternoon.

Real Talk: we’re talking about canned tuna and mayonnaise, the prospect of which on paper doesn’t seem all that appealing. But what if the discs of raw carrots were to turn into ribbons, the mayonnaise into homemade aioli, and if spidery whiskers of fresh dill were to fleck the whole thing? Could tuna macaroni salad become something almost elegant? I imagined what Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins would do if they were to reinvent this classic.

In the end, this cold macaroni salad sat in a turquoise bowl in our fridge for less than 24 hours before it was polished off. Not only delicious in an unassuming way, this is, to my mind, a perfect summer recipe: While the pasta boils, set to work chopping and then stir all the components together without even breaking a sweat.

Tuna Macaroni Salad
serves 4-6

1 pound whole wheat elbows
2 5-ounce cans tuna (I had tuna packed in water, but probably the fancier tuna packed in olive oil would have been superior)
1/2 cup homemade mayonnaise or aioli
3 tablespoons diced shallots
3 celery stalks, diced
1 bunch fresh dill, chopped (about 3/4 to 1 cup)
1 heart of romaine lettuce, shredded
1 carrot, peeled into long strips with a vegetable peeler

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt water, stir in elbows, and cook elbows until al dente, 5-7 minutes. Drain, set aside, and let cool. Remove elbows to a large serving bowl. Add tuna, mayonnaise, shallots, celery, and dill. Gently stir until ingredients are well mixed. Taste, season with salt and pepper. Serve individual portions topped with carrot ribbons.

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Comments

  • C: I just made macaroni salad the other day and was saying to my husband how great I thought it would be with tuna and then shazam. The internet obviously has my back!2 years ago

  • Haha… That would make a really great t-shirt: “The internet has my back.”2 years ago

  • Allison Conley: I beg your pardon, Miss Smarty Pants! I also add celery and carrots and cucumbers if I have them!

    Re: upcoming tomatoes…I have been working on my sourdough recipe. People who peeked at the sourdough starter on the counter since Sunday night have commented on the growth and diminution and fragrance…last night I baked the first loaf. This is exciting! Have you ever read how to make it taste more sour, or is that an age-of-the-starter quality? XOX MOM2 years ago

  • zoe: Yum, I love a cold macaroni tuna salad. Perfect for a summer lunch.2 years ago

  • Lindsay B: Yum! Sounds tasty… I’m not a tuna fan, so thinking of swapping for some shredded rotisserie chicken…mmm! And you’re right, sometimes there’s just nothing like the tastes you remeber from growing up- especially these seasonal comforts. Bon appétit!2 years ago

  • Mom, Did I say you didn’t use celery and carrots??? Nooooo. I just said mine is fancier cause the carrots are in ribbons, my mayo is homemade, and elbows are whole wheat. I LOVE your tuna macaroni salad. I have never made sourdough so I am very impressed, but I would guess that the sourness is based on the age of the starter.

    zoe, your blog is so pretty! everyone click on zoe’s name!

    Lindsay B, In that case, you could sub in tarragon for the dill. That would be delicious.2 years ago

  • Allison Conley: Sorry. I guess the humidity is making me edgy!! XOX2 years ago

  • Sara Rose: My mom always adds in red pepper flakes or sometimes pickled jalapenos. She also makes tuna deviled eggs and they ROCK. This salad just begs for an afternoon with a nice bottle of chilled white wine and some Pink Martini to listen to!2 years ago

  • The humidity makes me sleepy, mom! :)

    Oooh, Pink Martini…that sounds fun.2 years ago

  • K: I just made tuna macaroni salad the other day! Same reason; it reminds me of summer back home.2 years ago

  • Melissa: This post really hit home for me. My mom also had a simple tuna pasta salad for the summer. This sounds gross, but we used to tear up American cheese and mix it in. I’m sure there’s got to be a way to class that up…2 years ago

  • Hahaha, Melissa. So many things that are delicious sound gross. Take for instance my love of extra sharp cheddar cheese on triscuits with mayonnaise. Yes, mayonnaise.2 years ago

  • EB: Ok…. answer A makes me miss New York in a really weird way.2 years ago

  • Ginger: Yum! I’m making this for dinner tonight! We need something light and fresh, after a weekend roadtriping with snacks galore (pretzels and potato chips and candy bars, oh my!). I have all these ingredients on hand, and was just reading your blog instead of productively planning for dinner and now I’ve done both.

    Have you ever stuffed a nice big heirloom tomato with the mix for a fancy dinner display? Was wondering if that would work… hm… oh, summer dreaming.

    Thanks for the inspiration, as always!!!2 years ago

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