Pink of Perfection

Sometimes, when you find something new, you wonder how you got along without it. Like the Sven clogs that changed your walking life, or the Pandora that changed your listening life, or the half and half that is so vastly superior in your coffee than anything else, you can never go back to low-fat milk.

This is how I feel about charmoula (also spelled chermoula). Because of the warming air, I’ve been drawn to healthier recipes. But “healthy” can so often mean boring (broccoli and chicken breasts, anyone?) or weird (you know what I mean). It obviously doesn’t have to be this way, of course, but often this is what magazines serve up. This can lead to boredom for me, and fast. I like cheese, I like spice, and lately, I’ve been craving red meat like it’s my job. As a friend of mine recently announced, “fat tastes good.” I kind of think we should make tote bags emblazoned with this sentiment.

But then charmoula walked into my life and turned it upside down. This North African concoction is used as a dip, a marinade, and in this instance, was a perfect sauce for wine-poached chicken. Charmoula has a deep, back of the throat heat from garlic, cayenne, cumin, and paprika, but is brightened with lemon juice, fresh parsley and cilantro. This summer, I can imagine putting this on just about any and everything that comes off the grill. Served with a chopped salad with olives, tomatoes, cucumber and a touch of feta cheese, this was just the taste of fresh summer fare I needed.

Wine-Poached Chicken with Charmoula
adapted from Body + Soul
Serves 4

for the chicken:
2 cups dry white wine
4 whole sprigs of fresh cilantro
6 whole black peppercorns
Two 8-ounce whole chicken breasts
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

for the charmoula:
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon minced garlic
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/3 cup tomato juice
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

In a high-sided skillet or braiser, combine the wine, cilantro, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer. Add the chicken and poach, turning once, about 12 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove to a cutting board to rest.

Stir together charmoula ingredients in a small bowl. Cut the chicken breasts in half. Serve each with 1/4 cup of the charmoula and a big chopped salad.