Pink of Perfection

I thought it best to make my mom’s favorite foods for Mother’s Day dinner, and because she likes aioli, salmon, and coconut, my cooking on Sunday wasn’t so much a labor of love as it was a labor of likemindedness.

We drove together to a farm stand on a hilly stretch of road between our house and another town on a warm and sunny day. The flowering trees and forsythia had their moment the previous weekend, and now potted flowers were laid out for sale on splintery tables outside — gerber daisies and lots of blooms I didn’t know the names of. We grabbed two beautiful bunches of asparagus. The wind was whipping around so wildly, the roadside grasses were bowing deeply at the waist like gentlemen.

Back at home, my mom planted Early Girls in the garden and I stood at the counter in her kitchen, snapping off the asparagus ends, and looking out at her leaning into the dirt. The sun was catching in her short hair, and I thought, with such deep surprise and so much gratitude it nearly took my breath away, the spring always comes. After a winter of doctors and tests, prodding and hospital rooms, it is Mother’s Day and it is spring and it almost seems like a miracle. But it’s my mom.

Spouses and significant others stayed at home, and my older brother and sister and I sat in the kitchen with my mom, the wooden table spread with blanched asparagus and aioli, cheese and crackers, and chips and salsa — all mom’s favorites. Oh, and three of four kids — her other favorites. Salmon was to come, followed by coconut macaroons and a cup of tea. I don’t even remember what we talked about, I just know it was perfect.

Aioli
adapted from The Silver Palate Cookbook
makes about 1 cup

We served this with blanched, farm-fresh asparagus spears, and I wrapped the thicker stalks in prosciutto.

1-4 garlic cloves, depending on power of garlic
1 egg yolk, room temp
salt and freshly ground pepper
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3/4 cup canola oil

Puree garlic in a food processor or blender. Whisk the egg yolk in a small bowl until light and smooth, and add to the garlic. Add salt and pepper to taste, lemon juice, and mustard, and process to a smooth paste.

With the machine still running, add the oil, very slowly, into the mixture in a constant, steady stream, blending constantly. Continue the blending until you obtain a thick, shiny, firm sauce. Transfer to a bowl and serve.

Roasted Salmon with Herbed Yogurt Sauce
adapted from Everyday Food
Serves 8

1/2 cup Greek yogurt (2%)
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill, plus sprigs for serving
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
Coarse salt and ground pepper
1 side of salmon (3 pounds) or 8 fillets (6 ounces each)
Lemon wedges, for serving

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Combine yogurt, mustard, dill, and chives; season with salt and pepper. Place salmon, skin side down, on a rimmed baking sheet. Spread yogurt mixture on salmon.

Roast until opaque throughout, 15 to 20 minutes (8 minutes for fillets). Serve warm or at room temperature with lemon wedges.

Perfect Coconut Macaroons
from The Silver Palate Cookbook
makes 1 1/2 dozen cookies

1/3 cup flour
2 1/2 cup shredded coconut
2/3 cup sweetened condensed milk
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F and grease a cookie sheet. In a mixing bowl, stir together flour and coconut. Mix in sweetened condensed milk, salt, and vanilla until a thick batter is formed. Roll ping pong sized balls of dough and drop onto cookie sheet. Bake for 15-25 minutes, or until bottoms are lightly browned and peaks are taking on some color.