Guest Cook: Clinton Kelly's Cream Puffs

This recipe started like none I've ever seen before. Rather than first creaming the butter with the eggs, Clinton followed his grandmother's instructions to the letter and melted one stick of butter on the stovetop in one cup of water. Then we added the flour bit by bit over medium heat until the dough held together. I was so delighted to learn that the baking order of operations aren't etched in stone on a French mountaintop, and this was a good reminder that old family recipes can offer up new lessons. Like, for instance, that cream puffs are actually considered a pastry and if you pipe them full with chocolate - voila! - you've got an eclair.

I thought I would be embarrassed of my outfit no matter what I wore to Clinton's house (the man is a style guru on What Not to Wear, after all), but it turned out it was a kitchen appliance that left me feeling bashful. I don't communicate via carrier pigeons or cinch with a corset, why in god's name do I use an old-fashioned hand mixer? Clinton's super deluxe KitchenAid mixer effortlessly beat four eggs with a hum as low and melodious as Captain Von Trapp singing Edelweiss. I must have one.

Vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce are the classic cream puff pairing, but once you've got the recipe down, you can let your creative genius guide you. Strawberries and whipped cream would be great, and Clinton even stuffs his morning puffs with eggs scrambled with mushrooms and fresh herbs.

Are there other secrets to the universe like cream puffs? How could something that looks so glamorous and impressive be so effortless? But never one to put style before substance, Clinton's cream puffs were incredibly delicious, and deliciously deceiving: guests will think you were blessed by the French pastry gods, when really you just have a new friend with a lot of great secrets up his well-tailored sleeve.

Clinton's Cream Puffs
Serves 8
4 eggs
1 stick butter
1 cup flour
1 cup water
ice cream, chocolate sauce, and powdered sugar (or whatever your heart desires) for serving

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees. In a medium saucepan, heat water and butter over medium heat. Once the butter has melted, slowly add the flour a little at a time until the dough sticks together in a ball. Then cool to room temperature.

One at a time, add the eggs, beating well after each addition. Mix until smooth and velvety. When the dough is done, drop 8 heaping tablespoons onto a rimmed cookie sheet, giving each puff a little height. Bake for 35-40 minutes. If they're still shiny they aren't done yet, and they should sound hollow when tapped.

To serve, spoon some chocolate onto each plate and top with a cream puff. Pull the tops off and fill with ice cream. Tilt the cream puff top to the side like a jaunty hat, drizzle with chocolate sauce and pepper with powdered sugar. Watch as eyes and mouths go wide with delight.